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Monthly Archives: April 2010

This kit is currently just a theory.  I was at some volunteer thing all day, and talked to some other kid who has strange ideas.  We settled on  the following for a zombie(plague, not curse) survival kit:

-Weapons: ideally a shotgun, a hunting knife, and a pocket knife.  Also have ammo for the shotgun and a pistol.  Magazines for assault rifles would be hard to find unless you already have them, and they would need more ammo, taking up more weight and space.

-Food and Water: enough for 3 days.  If you aren’t within three days of more food anyway, you will die.  For food, choose stuff that doesn’t need to be frozen or cooked, like beans, granola bars, and beef jerky.  For water, try a canteen, not water bottles.  Also, a water purifier or tablets would be good.

-other: obviously, duct tape has many uses in any world.  A flashlight is needed, as are back-up batteries.  The GPS system could continue working for a few years without people, so bring a GPS and either more batteries for it or a charger(solar or off car batteries).  Rope will be useful, for securing things or closing doors against zombies.  Have fishing line and hooks, because there might not be much meat on a squirrel after it is hit with a shotgun, you will need more food.  And bring some kind of game for entertainment.  As a general rule, you want something that is usually lost before the batteries die, like 20 questions.  And of course, more people traveling with you would be good.  There is safety in numbers, and you don’t have to outrun the zombies, just the slowest person.  The goal of this pack is to keep you alive on your way to a safe place, not long term survival.

***Disclaimer*** don’t take me seriously.  I will not be responsible for your zombification.

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I have built a bunch of stuff recently without updating.

the first is a small breakout for a SPDT switch:

the next is a breakout for screw terminals so i can use anything with wires:

such as this switch:

next are two bargraphs soldered onto 74hc595 ic’s.  Both work, but on the first the order was not right for the leds, so I built another.  The led’s don’t have thier own resistors, but it works.  I was able to do this because I bought 10 of these chips for $3 on eBay.  The displays would have been under a buck to buy.  Last but not least, I have built another person:

his head, transistor, and diode are from disposable cameras.  The chip cost ten cents, and the perfboard is just a scrap.

I built a board to hold an LCD and the parts to control it.  I started it over a week ago, and finished it today(I forgot about it).  it uses the shiftreglcd library and a 74ls164.  To save one I/O pin, the design included an AND gate made from a diode and resistor.  The board reduces a complicated LCD to data, clock, power, and ground. This will keep me from having to make a whole circuit when I want an LCD in my Arduino projects.

lately, I’ve been working on turning a line following robot into one that is controlled by an arduino.  I took out the main board and line following sensor, as they did not work.  I replaced one of the dual AA battery packs with a 9v to power the arduino, and left the other to power the motors.  I installed a switch between the 9v battery and the 2.1mm jack for the arduino, and hotglued it in.  I have ordered a l293d motor driver on eBay, and this will soon be controlled.  I wil but the l293d in a board, then hotglue that board in, below the arduino’s platform, with a female header breaking out the necessary control.  I also ordered a boarduino, which may be optimul for this project.

i got the temperature sensor i bought from sparkfun a while ago working today.  One site I found recommended a 2.2k resistor, but i found 8.8 worked better for me.  I found this by running the demo sketch in the library(in the arduino playground), and fiddling with a potentiometer.  When I got values roughly consistent with another thermometer, I measured the value of the pot’s resistance between the output and 5v(I did not connect ground, so it was not  acting as a voltage divider.  I then connected 7 resistors in series to match this, so a twisted pot wouldn’t corrupt my measurements. it is accurate(within a degree or two), and i hope to make it better.